So it’s November – or Movember if you’re into decorative face fuzz and raising money for good causes.
Things are a bit hectic at the moment. When I went away to find out what’s coming into its own, food wise, I found myself drawn to the simple, wholesome and hearty. It may be of interest to you to know that salsify, quince and winkles are currently in season. But the things coming out of my kitchen are a bit more rustic. I’ve opted to focus on potatoes, parsnips, horseradish and apples.
When I saw them all written down together, it occurred to me that they felt complementary in some way. So last week I decided to create a meal using all of them.
Parsnip and potato horseradish mash with a caramelised red onion and apple compote. Served with sausages because my philistine heart will choose a good banger over a sirloin any day of the week. And with peas. For colour. Because colour balance matters.
This was the result.
I wanted to use fresh grated horseradish in my mash. Not because I have strong chef-fy opinions about it, but because I’ve never prepared a fresh horseradish before and I really wanted to. But time limitations and a disappointing selection at the local Waitrose (interestingly I could have bought a quince…) meant it was creamed horseradish or nothing.
For another interesting combination to try, go to the National Trust website, where you’ll find a 1920s recipe for potato and apple pie.
I’ll leave you with this list, because it’s amazing: Worcester Pearmain, Egremont, Laxton’s Superb, Crimson Queening, Beauty of Bath, Peasgood’s Nonesuch, Braddock’s Nonpareil, Yorkshire Goosesauce, Ashmead’s Kernel.
Just the tiniest selection of apple varieties produced by specialist growers in the UK. Why would you choose a Granny Smith with that lot on offer??